It takes a look at what travel was like for the English tourist in the nineteenth century from the descriptions in contemporary guidebooks. In case this sounds a bit dull, here are some of the events described in the first chapter: a young lieutenant is eaten by a bear, Shelley thumps a rude foreign traveller, and a subaltern friend of R F Burton wagers he can run across a lake by jumping from alligator back to alligator back, and he does! And that's just the first chapter!
Now, to be fair, things calm down a little as the book progresses, but it is a fascinating look at life in the nineteenth century portrayed sympathetically by Sillitoe. There is no criticism of the traveller of the time, no judgement of their way of life, just curiosity about their experiences. Here is a typical passage:
'Some of the remote inns were so bad that one wonders why travellers ventured into such regions, but a guidebook left no viable route undescribed. At Brussone the inn was said to be the most detestable in Piedmont. "Filth and its accompanying goitre, disgust in every direction, and the Cheval Blanc with its dirty hostess cannot be forgotten."...The inn at Macugna "which may be endured by an alpine traveller, and which may subdue an alpine appetite, offers all its bad accommodations with so much civility as almost to reconcile the traveller to disgust, starvation and want of rest. Myriads of fleas, and non-descript food do not bode well for rest and refreshment; but the little host who keeps the inn - of whom Aesop was the prototype - boasts of his having studied the cuisine at Lyons; he seems to have fitted himself for the study of Harpagon[1]. Still the inn may be endured for the sake of the palace of nature in which it is placed."'
The guidebooks of the time that Sillitoe quotes at length were well written and informative, and not above giving the English tourist a bit of advice about how to behave themselves or ticking them off for not being able to speak the language of the country they were visiting - something we British tourists are still criticised for. They warn about hotels that are bad and recommend the good ones, and the book points out that the great improvements in accommodation for tourists that occurred during the century were in large part due to the influence of these guidebooks.
The difficulties of travel at the time are fascinating: the trouble with passports especially if one visited Paris where it had to be surrendered at the port and then reclaimed in Paris with the appropriate visa if you wanted to be able to leave the city again; the bewildering number of different currencies one had to deal with just in Switzerland; and the constant trouble with porters, unscrupulous hoteliers and beggars attempting to extort money from the rich English tourists. The chapters portray different parts of the world as described in the various guidebooks, the sights that tourists would have seen, their modes of transport, the sort of accommodation they stayed in, and anecdotes about events from the region; for instance, one guidebook gave descriptions of the circumstances of all the deaths of people falling from glaciers in Switzerland, which is a little gruesome but may have persuaded visitors that they should be prepared before attempting to climb the mountains.
This is the perfect gentle read before I throw myself into the gothic horror of my RIP II challenge books, a wonderful book that I am very glad I finally pulled down from the shelf.
[1] The miser from Molière's L'Avare.




Hmm, not exactly going to see us through the winter, is it? The ones that we dug up earlier (as the slugs destroyed the plants, we dug up the potatoes) were delicious, though, with a much better flavour than ones from the supermarket, so we're looking forward to them nevertheless.
H P Lovecraft is a writer who provides a bridge between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries for lovers of horror. He will be read by devotees of classic ghost and gothic of the nineteenth and early twentieth century like me, and by readers of writers of modern horror, upon whom he has had a profound influence. Lovecraft's style varies, at time it is very direct, at others he revels in a use of language that rivals Ambrose Bierce, for instance [from Herbert West, Reanimator]:










